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How to deter groundhogs and get rid of them safely

Updated

Direct answer

The most reliable way to deter groundhogs is physical exclusion + habitat cleanup. In practice that means blocking access under decks/sheds with buried hardware cloth, using fencing that also goes below ground (or an outward “L” footer), and reducing food/cover. Repellents alone are usually temporary, especially once a groundhog has an established burrow.

Quick decision table

Your situation Best next move Why
You see occasional groundhog visits, no established burrow yet Habitat cleanup + fencing/sprinklers Early pressure can prevent a “move-in”
Active burrow in open yard away from structures Confirm activity, then removal/exclusion, then fill/compact Established burrows resist “scare” tactics
Burrow under deck/shed/steps/patio Professional wildlife control + exclusion mesh Harder to confirm exit; higher risk of damage
Repeated returns after DIY deterrents Upgrade to physical exclusion (mesh/fence) or pro removal Smells/ultrasonic rarely solve root cause

Why groundhogs stay

  • Safe shelter: burrows offer protection from predators and weather.
  • Food nearby: gardens, clover lawns, ornamental plants, fallen fruit, compost.
  • Low disturbance: quiet corners, brush piles, under-deck space.
  • Established tunnels: once a burrow is built, deterrents often become “background noise.”

What to do (safe order)

  1. Confirm activity: smooth dirt at entrances and check for fresh digging within 24–48 hours.
  2. Don’t seal an active burrow: avoid trapping an animal inside or causing odor issues.
  3. Remove or exclude: once the animal is out (or removed), block re-entry with heavy-gauge mesh.
  4. Backfill and compact: add soil in layers and compact to reduce future settling.
  5. Reduce attractants: fence gardens, remove cover, and manage food sources.

Most effective deterrents

  • Exclusion under decks/sheds: hardware cloth or welded wire, buried 10–12 inches, plus an outward “L” footer.
  • Garden fencing done right: strong mesh, buried 12+ inches (or “L” footer), seams secured, bottom tight to ground.
  • Habitat cleanup: remove brush piles, mow tall weeds, trim shrubs away from foundation edges.
  • Motion-activated sprinklers: best for early pressure; reposition occasionally to avoid pattern learning.

Common mistakes

  • Using smell deterrents as the main strategy (they fade; animals return).
  • Installing a fence without burying it (groundhogs dig underneath).
  • Sealing holes immediately without confirming the burrow is inactive.
  • Leaving easy food sources (unprotected gardens, fallen fruit, unsecured compost).
  • Skipping compaction when filling holes (settling creates new low spots and attracts digging).

FAQ

Do mothballs or ammonia repel groundhogs?

They are unreliable and usually short-lived. Odors fade and animals often return, and some substances can be unsafe around kids, pets, and gardens. Physical exclusion tends to work better than smell-based methods.

Do ultrasonic repellent stakes work?

Most people do not get consistent long-term results. Groundhogs may adapt, and soil conditions can reduce effective range. If you try them, treat it as a supplemental tool, not the main solution.

Should I fill a groundhog hole to make it go away?

Don’t seal an active burrow with an animal inside. Confirm it’s inactive first or handle removal/exclusion, then backfill and compact properly. Sealing too early can create odor problems and can push the animal to create new exits.

What is the best way to stop groundhogs from coming back?

Exclude access to protected spaces (under decks/sheds) using buried hardware cloth, fix the “dig-under” problem with a buried fence or outward “L” footer, and reduce food/cover. Long-term prevention is mostly about making the site inconvenient.

Related pages

Sources and assumptions

  • General wildlife control best practices: confirm activity, remove/exclude first, then seal and compact.
  • Deterrents are most reliable when paired with exclusion and habitat changes, especially after an animal is established.
  • This page is informational and not a substitute for local legal guidance on wildlife handling.